What memories sustain you?

Oh man, so many. Like everyone else out there, I have had quite a journey. Living now in farmland, I often think of visits to my great-grandmother’s home in the mountains of Tennessee when I was a little girl. How she lived off the land, farming and canning and enjoying her quiet life in the country. I always thought it was so cool, and here I am living in the country, planning our garden and how we can work our way out of city life altogether.

Then there’s all the years I spent running a non-profit all girls surf contest. I ‘retired’ from that 4 years ago, but for about 16 years, with the help of a wonderful community of surfers, I built a contest that grew to draw not just the local wahines, but girls from all over the east coast. Friendships were made that would not be possible without this event. We put on an empowering contest and helped girls of all ages find their inner strength in what has been a male-dominated sport. The love and appreciation I was given for doing something I loved was humbling.

Speaking of surfing, I have so many memories of waves that I’ve ridden over the years. From tiny ankle biters to overhead barrels. I remember my first barrel. I remember my first noseride. Watching the sun rise or set while sitting on my board in the ocean. Surfing in the rain. Gazing at the Costa Rican jungle as a large sea turtle swims by. My goodness, all of those waves. The connection of myself with God and Mother Nature. It’s truly incredible.

And now I want to go surfing 🙂